Grain House hits the sweet spot between ethnic Chinese restaurant and neighborhood Chinese restaurant. Its delicious food has universal appeal. There is even an “American Chinese Food” menu category for the resolutely timid eater. It’s a something-for-everyone kinda place. Every nabe should have one of these.
Suzanne Parker is the TimesLedger’s restaurant critic and author of “Eating Like Queens: A Guide to Ethnic Dining in America’s Melting Pot, Queens, N.Y.”
The newest restaurants these days are Chinese; in fact we might call Little Neck the city's sixth Chinatown, except that interspersed among them are Korean, Vietnamese, Salvadoran, and Italian places, so maybe it fails the "Chinatown" designation in terms of density. Among the Chinese restaurants are a Hong Kong noodle shop, a dim sum parlor, a massive Cantonese banquet hall, and Chinese-American carryouts, but the most recent and ambitious so far is Grain House. It appeared a couple of months ago in a space that used to be an Italian establishment called Conti's.